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Cities · Africa · 5°33′N 0°12′W

Accra

A small, fast-growing art scene with its own idea of sculpture: coffins shaped like fish, cars and onions.

A fantasy coffin from the Teshie workshops, Accra · CC0
Best monthsNovember–March, and August for Chale Wote
Art calendarChale Wote Street Art Festival (August, Jamestown)
This guide3 essentials · 5 places off-piste
EssentialsOff-Piste in AccraOne dayNearby

Essentials

Gallery 1957, Accra · CC BY 4.0
Gallery · Kempinski Hotel, Ridge

Gallery 1957

The gallery that brought Ghanaian contemporary art to international attention, named after the year of independence.

Look for: The shows of younger Ghanaian painters.
Free
Nubuke Foundation, Accra · CC BY-SA 4.0
Foundation · East Legon

Nubuke Foundation

An arts foundation in a garden compound, with exhibitions, an archive of Ghanaian modernism and studios.

Look for: The garden and the archive.
Free
Gallery · Labadi

Artists Alliance Gallery

Three floors of Ghanaian art and design founded by the sculptor Ablade Glover, facing the sea.

Look for: Glover's own palette-knife crowds.
Free
Off the list

Off-Piste in Accra

Rooms, ruins and curiosities: the city's other museum.

A fantasy coffin from the Teshie workshops, Accra · CC0
Workshop · Teshie

Fantasy coffins, Teshie

Ga carpenters, starting with Seth Kane Kwei in the 1950s, carve coffins in the shape of what the dead loved or did: a fish, a Mercedes, a Bible, an onion. The workshops still work.

Visit the Kane Kwei Carpentry Workshop.
Jamestown, Accra · CC BY-SA 4.0
Neighbourhood · Old Accra

Jamestown

The old fishing quarter around the lighthouse, with colonial forts and murals left by the Chale Wote festival.

Climb the lighthouse.
Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park, Accra · CC BY 4.0
Monument · Downtown

Kwame Nkrumah Memorial Park

The mausoleum of Ghana's first president, on the spot where he declared independence in 1957.

The bronze statue whose head was knocked off after the 1966 coup, set beside it.
National Theatre, Accra · CC BY-SA 2.0
Architecture · Victoriaborg

National Theatre

A white theatre of 1992 built by Chinese engineers, shaped like sails or a ship. Home to the national dance company and symphony orchestra.

Look from the Liberia Road side.
Black Star Square, Accra · CC BY-SA 4.0
Monument · Osu

Black Star Square

The parade ground built for independence in 1961, one of the largest squares in the world, with the Black Star Gate and the Independence Arch.

Go at sunset, when it is almost empty.
Nearby

Tamale

Ibrahim Mahama's Savannah Centre for Contemporary Art and Red Clay studios, a short flight north.

Cape Coast

Cape Coast Castle, about three hours west.

If you have one day

Nkrumah Memorial Park → Jamestown and the lighthouse → lunch → Artists Alliance Gallery → Teshie workshops.

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